Last year saw us do both Clouds rest and Half dome hikes in Yosemite. This year we had no plans. Two of our yoga teacher friends wanted to hike with us and also test out the RV they are building. So we made a quick plan to go with them to Upper Yosemite falls. After seeing posts and reports on the hike, they decided to bail out and do a shorter hike instead. In retrospect, they made a wise decision!
We were this close to canceling the hike but decided to make a day trip, thanks to other friends who decided to join us.
Woke up at 3:30 AM to make tea for the trip. There is no hiking without Chai! Started the drive before 5AM and we reached at 8:30 AM. After eating breakfast and drinking chai, we started hiking up at 9. The plan was to make it to the top by at least Noon or 12:30. It ended up being a hot day the sun was over us the entire time. We reached the top only at 1:15.
Most of the folks had a face washing session while I decided to take a dip in the very cold water. It was really refreshing. Also the change of clothes was much needed!
We ate the food that was packed. It was windy and scary but we did go down to the falls head view point using the railing.. (you can see it in the video).
Tried my hand at doing yoga poses before and after lunch. As usual San and friends were scared of me trying to balance on one leg on top of rocks.
San was so happy when we made it to the top. Even she found it hard.
Then we made our way back. Our downhill speeds were different. It is hard to pause on the return. The entire thing is rocky and you have to watch every step. The rocks are all slippery and dangerous. The good thing was it was windy and shaded on the way down. Given we all split up, some guy helped take this photo. Folks came down anywhere from 4:35 to 5:45 depending on their ability to go downhill or take breaks on the way.
There was a beautiful rainbow in the middle of the falls.
After practically hopping and running down without much of a break, all our legs were shaking uncontrollably for a good two hours!
Some more photos..
It was a very challenging hike even compared to Half dome because of the sun! The park service does classify this as a hard hike.
A mile into the hike we get to Columbia rock, a view point where we get to see half dome. it is a great spot to take a break and get some photos of the valley!
We started driving back at 6:30 PM after eating food we had packed and came home at 10:30 PM.
A short video of the hike..
Definitely recommend this as a day hike, ONLY if you have been hiking regularly and can handle a steady climb that keeps going for 3 hours straight. Not recommened for beginners or people who have difficulty coming down rocky terrain.
While we struggled through the hike, we enjoyed the company and had a sense of accomplishment after coming back to the parking lot. The hike is 7 miles from trailhead to top and back , but we walked 10+ miles in total. The elevation gain on this one is 3200 feet in 3 miles. So a steep challenging hike.
One more hike in the Yosemite National park checked out. Next year, we will find another interesting hike to do in YNP!
This weekend we finally made it to the top of Half dome. This was not the usual weekend hike. It was an experience. Something that will stay with me for a long time. Three years ago, would have thought this impossible.. thanks to COVID, the regular walks that turned to short hikes, the short hikes that turned to longer and longer hikes.. we eventually made it to this point! This is all thanks to the ladies who push their hubbies in our hiking group.
We had the permit months ahead. We all had our ups and downs and last minute setbacks, but somehow things came to place for the most part and we made it. There were intense planning sessions, zoom calls, training hikes (Mission peak twice back to back, El sombroso in half a day, Black mountain with extra load etc.), but none actually close to the real deal.
San always told me that she was not sure if I would make it to the top of Half dome.. but "if you make it past the sub dome, you will make it to the top". Heights was not an issue for me or almost rapelling down. The slow and steady climb for hours was the challenge.
To top things off, the one day we left the kid alone at home, she got sick and we had to drive back as fast as we could.. after hiking for 15 hours, drove back 4 hours straight. Not sure if my legs are sending back signals to the rest of the body anymore.. they have gone on strike after the events of yesterday!
Usually this blog starts with pictures.. but this time, starting with a video of the entire hike.. stitched together from 10 second clips recorded at around every mile..
and now for pictures..
We got a glimpse of the golden face of Half dome as the sun set across it the previous evening. We were going to the top of this thing the next day! That realization was something in itself... we checked out the parking situation at the closest lot to the trailhead and decided it would be best to park there and start. Otherwise it would have added another two miles to our trip. The plan was to leave the Curry Village lodgings at 4AM, start hiking by 4:15.
we were on plan!
The first two hours were difficult because it was very smoky. The air quality was bad at the lower altitudes. We just kept going. That is mars you see in the picture through the haze! It was a new moon day and before this early light, it was pretty dark.
As the sun came up, we were treated to amazing views and colors. We were already above Nevada falls by sunrise.
Then the mosquitos came.. in numbers! They preferred me for some reason. Having learned that lesson from the Clouds rest hike, this time I was ready to turn into the mosquitos bride with a net around my face.
You see the first light strike the half dome and realize how amazing, creation is!
it is something !!
Took a lot of panos, but nothing topped this one from the golden hour!
Shortly after this we managed to take a wrong turn and instead of hitting Nevada falls, we ended up walking towards Illilouette falls! Luckily we realized we were on the wrong path and turned back. that added another 30 minutes to our effort.. but we laughed it off and kept going.
She keeps smiling like that, I can go hiking hour after hour.. and if you have a bunch of giggling ladies who lift up the groups mood, any hike is easier... (note .. I just said easier.. not easy!). The next two hours were a blur. Nothing eventful, no amazing views.. we were going to Yosemite village and it was a slow and steady climb. the group was slowly losing steam visibly, but we kept going.
Then we were at the start of the sub dome to show the ranger our permits and ID's. Every day only 300 folks are allowed up on the cables to go to the top. We did some rough calculations to see what percent of folks make it to the top of the sub dome, then make it to the top of the cables. If 2/3 reach, that is 200 people a day and the cables are open for a 100 days ? That is 20,000 people a year. They have an average of two fatalities on the last part or so we were told. We just didn't want to be part of that statistic. Tied up the shoes, took some electrolytes and off we went!
The sub dome is indeed the hardest part of this hike. It is a steep climb on rocks with a high risk of slips and falls. The camera never came out during this part. Was just reciting mantras (yes, that works) and kept going one step at a time. There are no photos of me clambering up.. here is my friend walking up the last part..
Correction.. two of my friends sent pictures of me on the subdome.. so here it is.. we go up this and then come down and up the horn sticking up on the top right!
Making it to the top of sub dome! For once the person who is considered the photographer in the group did not take enough photos but the rest of the gang did! Again, it is great to go with friends!
There is no trail anymore.. it is just a test of will power at this point. Once you climb up sub dome, you climb down a bit to reach the cables.
The cable section tests your fear of heights. Need gloves (preferably Gorilla gloves), but I just used the regular costco winter gloves. Many folks made it up and realized they didn't have gloves and were asking folks if they could borrow?!
You are going up a 60 plus degree slope with wire cables and a bunch of 2x4's on the floor every 8 feet to stop yourself. At one point there is no 2x4's and you have to rapell down a 20 foot stretch. Luckily for us there was not a big crowd here. Still there were two folks who held us up. A lady who went halfway up and got scared and just clung on to a pole and refused to move and a guy whose backpack ripped open halfway and hurtled water and gatorade bottles on the people below. A water bottle missed me by a few inches as it came down. You see the power of gravity as a water bottle hurtles so fast from above!
It is a good idea to leave backpacks below (however one of our friend's backpack got chewed on by squirrels as they tried to get the food inside! So there is no easy way out. Best to go with backpacks where the zippers don't give. Let's just say we got lucky!
Once there at the top, there is a flat open space and a ledge... this ledge is a photo op dream.. folks on the flat side can take pictures of the people on the ledge. So I gave the camera to San and went to the ledge. She started screaming.. everyone on the top probably thought I was on some kind of suicide mission. In any case, did take some pictures. I started trying a standing bow and there was a mini tremor from San's screaming from the other side a good 200 meters away. So backed off and came back to try yoga poses in the flat side of half dome.
There was an actual conversation with a guy on the cables as we passed each other.. he asks me "what is a 60 day challenge?" and I explained it to him, while hanging on for dear life! Told him that is hard, but this is like doing a 60 day challenge in 15 days! Of the twenty or so folks who were at the top with us, everyone was impressed with the yoga effort.. a bunch of folks even asked me if I taught yoga! I was in splits hearing that.. pun intended!
There was more screaming after that toe stand and I just had to come down..
Here are the highlight pictures..
that picture on the ledge was something!
then we started the long walk down. We had a good break to wait for water to filter for all of us. Almost all of us ran out of the 2.5 to 3 liters of water per person. I got an allergic reaction to something and my hands broke out in rashes as well as my inner thighs got all bloody thanks to allergies and sweaty wet clothes. Should have worn dri-fit clothes instead of cotton pants. That is a lesson for the future!
We decided to walk on the mist trail for the last leg and see Nevada and Vernal falls on the way down. While it was a mile shorter, it was a lot harder coming down slippery steps. Next time (when there is one), we will come back on the JMT (John Muir Trail), the same way we went up. Longer is sometimes better!
Even with less water Vernal falls never ceases to amaze me!
We got back to the parking lot, knew that we had to rush back to a sick kid and didn't take a break. Just kept driving non-stop for 4 hours. San ate something and fed me while I was driving.. all the while trying to talk to the little one to make sure she was okay and had our neighbor come in and help.
Made it before midnight. It is one thing to walk a few thousand feet for a few hours.. another thing to do it hour after hour for 15 hours. This graph tells it all..this is the most I have walked in a day since this health app showed up on the iPhone.. maybe the most in my life!
Now after that and 4 hours of non stop driving on windy roads in Yosemite and route 152, my legs are in bad shape. Have to rest, take it easy on the legs and recover for a few days!
All said and done.. this is something that I thought would be impossible in this lifetime. Thanks to all the yoga, the encouragement and support of the hiking group and the push from San, was able to make it.
Fortunately, I am already recovering nicely and so is the little one.
If you decide on going to half dome, no matter your age, do your research, plan well, get the right gear, train properly, go with the right group and you will enjoy the experience!
What next? We will wait for a few weeks and then ask ourselves the question!
This blog has not seen an entry for more than two months. A lot has happened since. A quick trip to India to combine work with family, a return to the US followed by heavy jet lag, getting way too busy at work to catch up on blogging, singing etc.
However, every alternate week, there has been a hiking trip and I will get to those blogs soon enough. The highlight of all those recent hikes, is the one to Cloulds rest, in Yosemite the past weekend.
It is the best hike to date since we started hiking during COVID shutdown. An unforgettable experience. Wife is part of a hiking group where they get permits and call for folks to take up open spots. She informed me two weeks ago that we are going to do a overnight camp and a hike.
The original plan was to:
start Saturday morning, reach Yosemite by 9AM, take a break at the gate after getting the permit paperwork, meet the rest of the group (no cell signals there!) and then drive to the starting point of the Cathedral lakes trailhead, hike with the backpack to a halfway point, camp at 9000 feet overnight, then hike up to Clouds rest Sunday morning and be back Sunday afternoon, drive back.
We made it to the trail head on Saturday as planned. We were just starting the hike on Saturday when there was a thunder storm with heavy hail! There was ice and slush everywhere.
We had to come back and find a camp site in short notice. We were lucky enough to find two spots in Tioga lake. The ground was dry here already!
That also meant, we had to do all the 15+ miles of hiking on Sunday.
My shoes and clothes were all wet walking from parking lot to the place where rest of the group were waiting. That made it very difficult to walk the rest of the day and the following day. We tried to dry the shoes by putting it near a half assed fire.. and trying to keep it inside the tent! It was hilarious. I did walk the next day in damp shoes and got blisters on four of my toes.
We spent a beautiful evening around Tioga lake and enjoyed chatting, had masala chai and did a 3 mile walk around the lake. It was just beautiful and serene, with Mount Dana in the background.
What is a hike without a "chaifie"?!
Every 100 feet, my macro mode in the iPhone was put to good use to zoom in on small flowers. The rest of the group were amused by my love for the macro shots.. (most of these next photos are of flowers the size of my thumbnail or smaller!)
We ate what we had packed and went to sleep at 8:30 when it was still light outside. We had to get up at 4:30 AM to pack up the tents etc. That was a challenge without gloves, especially when the dew outside the tent has condensed.. having the right gear makes all the difference!
We drove to the trailhead after the quick packup on Sunday morning, and did the hike to Cloud's rest and back as a day hike! The weather report said 42 F lows but it ended up being below 30F in the night. Given the lack of proper sleep from the cold on Saturday night, our group split into two. The folks who couldn't sleep well hiked up to Sunrise lakes which was a 7 mile round trip and the other three went up!
Yosemite trails are not like the local trails. At most places, you have to eenie meenie miney mo to decide which path is the trail and which is not.. it is a bunch of rocks thrown together with some kind souls trying to mark the path with same rocks..
The views were amazing and we were mostly smiling and laughing all the way to the top.. left to my wife, I would have had to do this in half the time, but thankfully I had company and we went at a steady pace! This also made sure that she was in pictures with me!!
At 10,000 feet the air is thin and breathing gets to be hard, but we had fun doing this hike. On the way up, we went at a steady pace of 1.5 miles an hour.
The last 0.3 miles of this hike is a real challenge. There is a knife edge around 3-4 feet wide made of oblong rocks thrown on top of one another.. You have to put down your backpacks and walk the edge to go to the top and get a breathtaking view of the entire valley below!
At one point there is a two to three feet gap on the rocks and you either have to jump down and climb back up, or do an Indiana Jones "leap of faith" step across the rocks! Taking a photo of that would put the photographer at even more risk.. and San refused to do it. She came down and went back up and we missed a chance to capture Sangiana Jones! Maybe another time.. if there is one!
You get a 360 degree panorama of the entire thing from this point!
No photographs do justice to what we saw.. a video at the end of this post captures the knife edge a lot better.
While coming down we were much faster but the direct sun and mosquitos made it very difficult for me. Got nausea in the last three miles down. It was also a non stop descent. So took a 3-5 minute break every half a mile and made it back. After a 5 minute stop in the parking lot, started driving back right away!
We were treated to more amazing views on the way down.. but you stop walking, the insects start having you for lunch!
Made another 10 minute stop at the Pizza Factory in Groveland to grab a lemonade and kept driving. At some point we started smelling burning stuff inside the car. Kind of freaked out and drove the last 100 miles at 55 mph with minimal breaking! Turns out the brake pads and rotor were burnt and we were lucky to make it back.. The tire treads also wore out completely! The car has had an expensive makeover now after this trip as an unwanted side effect.
All said and done, we had quite an adventure and were glad to make this trip. While waiting for the hail storm to subside, met a lady who had just come back after climbing Cathedral peak (ropes and all) who told me "there is no such thing as bad weather in Yosemite, only bad gear! you should have bought water proof shoes and dri-fit clothes and better equipment to camp even on ice! but looking at you now, you don't stand a chance of going up now and camping". We were lucky to find those spots overnight and also lucky to make it a day hike!
Clouds rest is not an easy hike and would not recommend it for kids. Get right shoes, blister free socks, right backpacks which don't hug your back, floppy hats with mosquito nets instead of baseball caps, insect proof clothing, beanies to cover ears during night, gloves that are rated for sub zero temperatures, etc. before trying these hikes. Looks like daddy is going to go shopping soon...
One other thiing.. all the local hikes did not train me for this. There is no clear trail in most places.. we end up scrambling on rocks, sometimes a foot and a half tall. So it takes a toll on the knees. The only training for hiking in Yosemite is to hike in Yosemite!
A video that captures our weekend..
One more item ticked off the list..
We were very fortunate to have lovely company on this trip. Our fellow hikers were truly amazing and we loved the overnight camping and chatting and getting to know the group!
Next dream, Half Dome!
Wife thinks I won't be able to do it.. I am hopeful. Let's see what happens..
The day trip was to see the Firefalls... but before we got to that, we spent the day hiking Vernal falls (as far as we could go safely)..
As long as this girl is next to me.. I seem to be going places.. at least one place a week!
We saw some amazing landscapes on the way! Here is the day in pictures.. mostly selfies! We started early and were at the park by 9AM.. we took our time taking photos at every vista point...
walking on snow is easier than walking on ice.. especially when it is patchy and you cannot see it! we were all slipping and sliding during many a stretch..
so far it was mostly selfies.. then it got tricky enough that we gave our phones to others to keep the line going and the pictures coming..
There are plenty of nature shots..will post them separately..
Tuesday, October 31, 2023 at 10:20PM ;)
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