In the late nineties, my cousin in the US gave a subscription to the National Geographic Magazine. The very first few issues that we got blew our minds. One was about the Serengeti National park. It is still being talked about in the house. The pictures, the occasional map that was packed inside the magazine, the posters, the big official looking certificate that stated that I was now an explorer.. not to mention the fact that the mail was actually addressed to me.. priceless!
That membership lasted two years and it was a window to the world for me and my brother!
One of the things I learned in that magazine was that there was such a thing as a glasswing butterfly with transparent wings. It was to be found near a natural wonder of the world called Iguazu falls.
Many years later I ended up in the US and got my own subscription to the bucket list generator magazine! There is a long list of places I told myself that would be visited in this lifetime. After getting married the wife was told about this long list of items. She was not aware of most these places. The kids would shake their head and go "no wonder you two are married.. there is nothing in common between you two! Appa raves about all these places and you have never heard of them!". Needless to say, when it came time to visit any of these places, the kids would give excuses to bail and it was my darling wife that would actually force them to come and also plan the entire thing.
She got tired of me mentioning Iguazu. She did her research, found that this was in the middle of the amazon jungle, part of this visit involved a boat tour that was dangerous, vegetarian food there was going to be a challenge and there were insect bites to deal with (which was a strict no no for the little one). In spite of all this, she did an amazing job booking everything. There were a few last minute twists but we handled them well as a collective, given our last day in Greece during Labor day!
This is going to be a series of blog posts on this trip to Iguazu.. as an added bonus, given we don't visit this part of the world that often, we decided to go to Rio to see "Christ the Redeemer" as well as the world famous beaches there. Then there was Buenos Aires, our first stop before flying into Iguazu at the Brazil Argentina border.
Given my status as a frequent flyer is questionable, we had to go a week early. The kids were not thrilled with a 9 day international trip the day after they got back home from college. We had both taken the week off before Christmas to beat the crowds and it was a good move, except having to spend Christmas in the southern hemisphere where it is summer and it is not exactly festive like in the northern hemisphere. A summer Christmas is intersting! You start feeling bad for the mall Santa in 95 degree heat!
We made it back from South America in one piece and in good health. A new years party took some of us out. My throat is still recovering and I could not even speak for a few days last week. Thinks are just slowly getting back to normal.
Word of caution to bay area peeps. Start wearing masks and sanitizing hands again! Did take the covid and flu shots in October. Know this is not COVID or flu but some other respiratory virus that takes aim at the throat. Trying to sing songs I like did not help either (given I sing them 50 times back to back till a version clicks).
Right now all I can do is type.. hence the blogging to distract myself!
The travelogs follow..
Fun fact: We did not see the glasswing butterfly during this trip.. but we did see the falls in all its glory. Jr. and myself made it to the "Devil's throat" within the falls, which was the real core of that bucket list item!
Last year saw us do both Clouds rest and Half dome hikes in Yosemite. This year we had no plans. Two of our yoga teacher friends wanted to hike with us and also test out the RV they are building. So we made a quick plan to go with them to Upper Yosemite falls. After seeing posts and reports on the hike, they decided to bail out and do a shorter hike instead. In retrospect, they made a wise decision!
We were this close to canceling the hike but decided to make a day trip, thanks to other friends who decided to join us.
Woke up at 3:30 AM to make tea for the trip. There is no hiking without Chai! Started the drive before 5AM and we reached at 8:30 AM. After eating breakfast and drinking chai, we started hiking up at 9. The plan was to make it to the top by at least Noon or 12:30. It ended up being a hot day the sun was over us the entire time. We reached the top only at 1:15.
Most of the folks had a face washing session while I decided to take a dip in the very cold water. It was really refreshing. Also the change of clothes was much needed!
We ate the food that was packed. It was windy and scary but we did go down to the falls head view point using the railing.. (you can see it in the video).
Tried my hand at doing yoga poses before and after lunch. As usual San and friends were scared of me trying to balance on one leg on top of rocks.
San was so happy when we made it to the top. Even she found it hard.
Then we made our way back. Our downhill speeds were different. It is hard to pause on the return. The entire thing is rocky and you have to watch every step. The rocks are all slippery and dangerous. The good thing was it was windy and shaded on the way down. Given we all split up, some guy helped take this photo. Folks came down anywhere from 4:35 to 5:45 depending on their ability to go downhill or take breaks on the way.
There was a beautiful rainbow in the middle of the falls.
After practically hopping and running down without much of a break, all our legs were shaking uncontrollably for a good two hours!
Some more photos..
It was a very challenging hike even compared to Half dome because of the sun! The park service does classify this as a hard hike.
A mile into the hike we get to Columbia rock, a view point where we get to see half dome. it is a great spot to take a break and get some photos of the valley!
We started driving back at 6:30 PM after eating food we had packed and came home at 10:30 PM.
A short video of the hike..
Definitely recommend this as a day hike, ONLY if you have been hiking regularly and can handle a steady climb that keeps going for 3 hours straight. Not recommened for beginners or people who have difficulty coming down rocky terrain.
While we struggled through the hike, we enjoyed the company and had a sense of accomplishment after coming back to the parking lot. The hike is 7 miles from trailhead to top and back , but we walked 10+ miles in total. The elevation gain on this one is 3200 feet in 3 miles. So a steep challenging hike.
One more hike in the Yosemite National park checked out. Next year, we will find another interesting hike to do in YNP!
This weekend we finally made it to the top of Half dome. This was not the usual weekend hike. It was an experience. Something that will stay with me for a long time. Three years ago, would have thought this impossible.. thanks to COVID, the regular walks that turned to short hikes, the short hikes that turned to longer and longer hikes.. we eventually made it to this point! This is all thanks to the ladies who push their hubbies in our hiking group.
We had the permit months ahead. We all had our ups and downs and last minute setbacks, but somehow things came to place for the most part and we made it. There were intense planning sessions, zoom calls, training hikes (Mission peak twice back to back, El sombroso in half a day, Black mountain with extra load etc.), but none actually close to the real deal.
San always told me that she was not sure if I would make it to the top of Half dome.. but "if you make it past the sub dome, you will make it to the top". Heights was not an issue for me or almost rapelling down. The slow and steady climb for hours was the challenge.
To top things off, the one day we left the kid alone at home, she got sick and we had to drive back as fast as we could.. after hiking for 15 hours, drove back 4 hours straight. Not sure if my legs are sending back signals to the rest of the body anymore.. they have gone on strike after the events of yesterday!
Usually this blog starts with pictures.. but this time, starting with a video of the entire hike.. stitched together from 10 second clips recorded at around every mile..
and now for pictures..
We got a glimpse of the golden face of Half dome as the sun set across it the previous evening. We were going to the top of this thing the next day! That realization was something in itself... we checked out the parking situation at the closest lot to the trailhead and decided it would be best to park there and start. Otherwise it would have added another two miles to our trip. The plan was to leave the Curry Village lodgings at 4AM, start hiking by 4:15.
we were on plan!
The first two hours were difficult because it was very smoky. The air quality was bad at the lower altitudes. We just kept going. That is mars you see in the picture through the haze! It was a new moon day and before this early light, it was pretty dark.
As the sun came up, we were treated to amazing views and colors. We were already above Nevada falls by sunrise.
Then the mosquitos came.. in numbers! They preferred me for some reason. Having learned that lesson from the Clouds rest hike, this time I was ready to turn into the mosquitos bride with a net around my face.
You see the first light strike the half dome and realize how amazing, creation is!
it is something !!
Took a lot of panos, but nothing topped this one from the golden hour!
Shortly after this we managed to take a wrong turn and instead of hitting Nevada falls, we ended up walking towards Illilouette falls! Luckily we realized we were on the wrong path and turned back. that added another 30 minutes to our effort.. but we laughed it off and kept going.
She keeps smiling like that, I can go hiking hour after hour.. and if you have a bunch of giggling ladies who lift up the groups mood, any hike is easier... (note .. I just said easier.. not easy!). The next two hours were a blur. Nothing eventful, no amazing views.. we were going to Yosemite village and it was a slow and steady climb. the group was slowly losing steam visibly, but we kept going.
Then we were at the start of the sub dome to show the ranger our permits and ID's. Every day only 300 folks are allowed up on the cables to go to the top. We did some rough calculations to see what percent of folks make it to the top of the sub dome, then make it to the top of the cables. If 2/3 reach, that is 200 people a day and the cables are open for a 100 days ? That is 20,000 people a year. They have an average of two fatalities on the last part or so we were told. We just didn't want to be part of that statistic. Tied up the shoes, took some electrolytes and off we went!
The sub dome is indeed the hardest part of this hike. It is a steep climb on rocks with a high risk of slips and falls. The camera never came out during this part. Was just reciting mantras (yes, that works) and kept going one step at a time. There are no photos of me clambering up.. here is my friend walking up the last part..
Correction.. two of my friends sent pictures of me on the subdome.. so here it is.. we go up this and then come down and up the horn sticking up on the top right!
Making it to the top of sub dome! For once the person who is considered the photographer in the group did not take enough photos but the rest of the gang did! Again, it is great to go with friends!
There is no trail anymore.. it is just a test of will power at this point. Once you climb up sub dome, you climb down a bit to reach the cables.
The cable section tests your fear of heights. Need gloves (preferably Gorilla gloves), but I just used the regular costco winter gloves. Many folks made it up and realized they didn't have gloves and were asking folks if they could borrow?!
You are going up a 60 plus degree slope with wire cables and a bunch of 2x4's on the floor every 8 feet to stop yourself. At one point there is no 2x4's and you have to rapell down a 20 foot stretch. Luckily for us there was not a big crowd here. Still there were two folks who held us up. A lady who went halfway up and got scared and just clung on to a pole and refused to move and a guy whose backpack ripped open halfway and hurtled water and gatorade bottles on the people below. A water bottle missed me by a few inches as it came down. You see the power of gravity as a water bottle hurtles so fast from above!
It is a good idea to leave backpacks below (however one of our friend's backpack got chewed on by squirrels as they tried to get the food inside! So there is no easy way out. Best to go with backpacks where the zippers don't give. Let's just say we got lucky!
Once there at the top, there is a flat open space and a ledge... this ledge is a photo op dream.. folks on the flat side can take pictures of the people on the ledge. So I gave the camera to San and went to the ledge. She started screaming.. everyone on the top probably thought I was on some kind of suicide mission. In any case, did take some pictures. I started trying a standing bow and there was a mini tremor from San's screaming from the other side a good 200 meters away. So backed off and came back to try yoga poses in the flat side of half dome.
There was an actual conversation with a guy on the cables as we passed each other.. he asks me "what is a 60 day challenge?" and I explained it to him, while hanging on for dear life! Told him that is hard, but this is like doing a 60 day challenge in 15 days! Of the twenty or so folks who were at the top with us, everyone was impressed with the yoga effort.. a bunch of folks even asked me if I taught yoga! I was in splits hearing that.. pun intended!
There was more screaming after that toe stand and I just had to come down..
Here are the highlight pictures..
that picture on the ledge was something!
then we started the long walk down. We had a good break to wait for water to filter for all of us. Almost all of us ran out of the 2.5 to 3 liters of water per person. I got an allergic reaction to something and my hands broke out in rashes as well as my inner thighs got all bloody thanks to allergies and sweaty wet clothes. Should have worn dri-fit clothes instead of cotton pants. That is a lesson for the future!
We decided to walk on the mist trail for the last leg and see Nevada and Vernal falls on the way down. While it was a mile shorter, it was a lot harder coming down slippery steps. Next time (when there is one), we will come back on the JMT (John Muir Trail), the same way we went up. Longer is sometimes better!
Even with less water Vernal falls never ceases to amaze me!
We got back to the parking lot, knew that we had to rush back to a sick kid and didn't take a break. Just kept driving non-stop for 4 hours. San ate something and fed me while I was driving.. all the while trying to talk to the little one to make sure she was okay and had our neighbor come in and help.
Made it before midnight. It is one thing to walk a few thousand feet for a few hours.. another thing to do it hour after hour for 15 hours. This graph tells it all..this is the most I have walked in a day since this health app showed up on the iPhone.. maybe the most in my life!
Now after that and 4 hours of non stop driving on windy roads in Yosemite and route 152, my legs are in bad shape. Have to rest, take it easy on the legs and recover for a few days!
All said and done.. this is something that I thought would be impossible in this lifetime. Thanks to all the yoga, the encouragement and support of the hiking group and the push from San, was able to make it.
Fortunately, I am already recovering nicely and so is the little one.
If you decide on going to half dome, no matter your age, do your research, plan well, get the right gear, train properly, go with the right group and you will enjoy the experience!
What next? We will wait for a few weeks and then ask ourselves the question!
After visiting Lake Louise, Lake Moraine and doing the Paradise valley hike, we drove to Johnston Canyon. We knew what we had to do..
Hike to lower falls, then upper falls and depending on how we were doing at that time, go all the way to Ink pots. Given we had already hiked 6+ miles by then, this was going to be another 8 miles. Our decision was to go at a steady pace.
Lower falls came and went,
we cross the river and then go along it on a catwalk
There is a small tunnel you go through (there is a line) and you get to see the falls up close and personal..
Then we start towards upper falls. It is a decent, easy to moderate hike to Upper falls. At this point the crowd has already thinned down and most people turn back..Upper falls is beautiful..
tried a few long exposure shots..
we walk to the top of the falls and then deviate from the river to go up the mountain range..
Ink pots deserves a blog post of its own, but given the rate at which I am able to blog, just going to write this as one long post..
you walk past Upper falls through a meadow with flowers that has an amazing vista!
Maybe 10% of folks go past Upper falls to Inkpots, as it is considered a hard hike. We had to go.. San for one actually offered to turn back, but I refused. It is not everyday I am coming to Banff, so off we went.
The scenery that awaits you once you reach is worth it.. there are 5 to 6 pools of different depths which have different shades of blue and green because of the sediment and the depth of the pools.. the reflections of the mountains in the pools makes for amazing pictures.. I composed this shot and asked a college kid to take this picture.. my camera was on the floor at one end of the pool.. once she saw the end result, she requested me to take the same shot on her phone.. before you know it, there was a line for that! San was impressed by my photo composing skills for once!
some more shots at this beautiful location..(you can see it in the video also)
we were really happy we did this hike!
A video of the hike..
It was a hard hike only because it goes up and straight down to a valley to Ink pots. That means you climb up, climb down and up again on the way back. That saps you mentally.
Fortunately for us, we met an amazing local couple who were senior to us, but do this hike regularly. We started talking to them and while San and Mr. Local started walking faster, I really hit it off with Mrs. Local and we just kept talking and walking. The last 4 miles was a breeze.. before we knew it, we were down and almost 30 minutes ahead of when we thought we will get down. Sometimes, a great conversationalist is all that is required to get me moving fast again! I didnt take a single photo on the way back. Just walked and talked.
We really enjoyed their company and had lunch with them. We had packed parathas from Indian Curry house and they had their packed lunch. We decided to stay in touch and started driving back towards Banff. Our plan (which they thought was going to be luck driven, given parking and ticket availability) was to go to the Gondola and go up Sulfur mountain!
More on that later..
This is a must see place in Banff.. the Ink pots is a hard hike, but don't miss it. Take enough water and pace yourself and go..
We made friends for life on this trip and that made it all the more special!
After taking in the beauty of Lake Louise and Lake Moraine, we had an hour. So we decided to hike the Paradise valley trail.
This trail goes to a beautiful vista point after an approximately 3 mile hike and eventually connects at a fork to Lake Louise or Lake Moraine. The hike towards Moraine goes to an amazing ledge viewpoint after a few more miles. We did not have time to go there.. but we will definitely on a future trip.
This trail was lush green along a boistrous creek. Every now and then there is a path that goes to the rivers edge. We hiked up to the bridge, admired the river and walked back.
The sun was just starting to come out..one side was bright and that made for interesting views..
Now we were late on our schedule, but at this point, San decided to go with a flexible approach.. "we see what we can see" was the new motto.
A short video of the creek and our drive back.. they have beautiful animal crossing bridges on this freeway to avoid animals and people losing their lives.. these overpasses have trees on them and the animals cross over safely.. hope the US also adopts this in places like Yosemite..
We had not had anything to eat till this point. So we decided to eat some snacks while driving slowly towards the next stop.. Johnston canyon.
Johnston canyon gets us practically back to Banff town. We had covered the farther points and that meant not much driving left..just a lot of hiking!
Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 9:20PM ;)
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