That was our first experience sharing trails with cows that would just not move!
We also visited parts of this trail to just see the wild flowers.. but did not go to the peak on that day. Multiple folks ended up with nosebleeds thanks to all the allergens on that trip!
We made our second trip to the top today. Except this time we decided to take the steep hike for the last 0.2 miles to the peak directly instead of going an extra mile around the peak to reach the top! That made it really interesting.
There were no allergens this time. It was a barren trail. It was cool but the sun was in our face and I did get sunburnt. And yes, we had to step outside the trail a few times to avoid cows and the calves.
some photos of this hike.
this cutie posed for me when we walked past.. while the mom was calling for it to just come to her!
We were admiring the way these tall anternna towers were anchored on three sides..
A highlights video of the hike..
Thoroughly enjoyed the hike today even though at one point it was incredibly difficult. We made the 10.3 mile hike close to 4 1/2 hours because there were no breaks till we got to the top. Every now and then we stopped for a minute tops to sip water or take a photo and kept moving. There was one 20 minute break at the top for Chai and biscuts and a photo session.
This turns out to be a great time to hike here. There are no snow covered peaks in the background but the fog and clouds and the layers of mountains with a clear view of the valley make for some amazging views. Felt great at the top!
In what seems to be ages ago, San and me did a day trip to Monterey earlier this year.. this was between the India trip and our anniversary trip!
It was a trip to go hiking with our jigiri dost's from morning to evening. Given our kids were not home, we drove early in the morning to meet them and started hiking.
It was cold and foggy as we made our way along the trail to see the coast line.
Amazing views, lot of birds, deer, (some insects buzzing about) and seals in a cove with their little ones! Lot of work wtih the macro option as well ..
slide show of landscape photos..
and the rest of the highlight photos
We then went back to their place to have lunch. Had chai and then went back for another hike down to the beach!
It was almost a private beach that day. Enjoyed that walk long the beach and drove back to bay area.
It was a ton of fun and there were 200 photos and many video clips from that day..
Here is a video highlight
It deserved a blog post!
We really enjoyed that day and still remember it! it was San's way of prepping me for traveling alone with her again and still have fun.
It was a long drive in bad traffic on the way back. We realized there was no way we will make it home by dinner time.. so we stopped on the way at an Indian restaurant (my first time there). The food was good!
Still have 2000+ pictures from that anniversary trip to Europe. It will take 2 years to write blog posts on that.. if my memory doesn't fade..
We slept early after the long gruelling hike. Woke up in the morning and after having Chai in our room we were all ready to go to the Vista point on our way back to Phoenix.
All nine of us had matching T-shirts to wear. It was great to spend almost an hour taking photos at the vista point.
We were delayed by an extra 30 minutes with the "photoshoot" and raced towards Phoenix.
There was a 30 mintue stop for lunch in Flagstaff at a nice Indian place. It was really good food, great ambience, quick service! If we ever visit Flagstaff, will definitely go back to this place!
We made it 20 minutes before boarding time to the gate!
It took me two days to be able to walk normally again and be able to sit down and stand up. Was mostly standing and walking all of Monday and Tuesday. Did yoga last two days and finally able to do squats again.
All said and done, it was a memorable trip. Will I go back to the south rim again. Definitely not.
This was one of the most challenging hikes we have done to date. Enjoyed the trip and most of the hiking except for the last three miles!
The cover photo for this post.. (usually it is a "bench photo".. there were no benches on this hike and this was as close as it got)
Here is a video highlight of the entire trip! This time posting the video upfront. . .
The morning of the hike, we were all ready at 5:15 AM waiting for a ride from the Yavapai lodge to the trailhead. There is a car service that gives large groups rides directly to the trailhead for around 3 to 4 dollars a person. We were 9 of us and it was a full van! It was a 5 minute ride to the trailhead but would have been another 2 plus mile walk!
Once at the trail head we took photos and started at 6AM. The ground was covered in snow and ice. None of this was in the plan!
This hike is not for the faint hearted. It is a pretty difficult trail. It is an 18 mile minimum hike starting from the South Kaibab trailhead that goes all the way down to the colorado river.. ~ 8 miles of straight downhill hiking over 5000 feet. The weather goes from cold to warm to hot when we are down at the bottom.
The portrait format photos are fewer..
The landscape format photos (most of them) are in this slide show! Just amazing views all day..
The first two miles were slow going because it was still dark and the icy ground. We reached Ooh-aah point to catch the sunrise! It was spectacular watching the first rays of the sun hit the canyon!
First photos of us as we went through the hike with some time stamps... just 4 years older than Sangeetha, but when that 4 years is on either side of 50, it seems to make a huge difference when it comes to walking uphill.
6:30 AM : Photos at Ooh_aah point waiting for the sun to come out..
San allowed me to do yoga poses on rocks. Was wondering "is there a catch?" and turns out there was none. She is now a yogi and appreciates me posing with the BYSJ shirt at national parks!
She did start screaming when I turned to take this selfie on the ledge..there was screaming from multiple ladies!
8:15 AM at Skeleton point
After the first two miles we tried to pick up the pace, but it was hard with all the puddles in the trail. That was an added distraction for me. Have a whole series of photos from puddles which will be posted separately.
We managed to reach Skeleton point after two hours and 15 minutes and Tonto West (Tip off point) at 9 AM. We had made up some distance in the last hour. Then it was time to go through a steeper descent to the river.
9:00 AM Tip off point
9:30 AM
We can see the colorado river and the green bridge
10:30 AM
We finally reached the green bridge across the river. At this point the group was split up into two. So two of us went ahead in search of the next restroom which was a mile away! By the time th rest of the group joined it was 10:30. We walked together to Phantom ranch after a break.
Under side of the green bridge
Then there is a few miles of walking along the river to Phantom ranch. From there it is a crossover the Colorado river again and back to the Bright Angel trailhead at the top. (most folks start at bright angel and end up in South Kaibab).
Hindsight being 20/20 and given we had our own packed food, we should have just got back on the river trail and saved ourselves 2 hours in time and 2 plus miles extra walking. Phantom ranch was overrated.
Phantom ranch was a let down. There was a canteen there and a few benches to sit and eat lunch. We were told that there is free lemonade for everyone who visits this place. IT IS A MYTH! THERE IS NO FREE LEMONADE!
There is lemonade for sale at 6$ a cup with 1$ for refills. Some folks in our group were all set on having that lemonade and did! Their verdict? Nothing special !
After eating our packed lunches and having lightened our backpacks a bit, we started our hike back. The return was going to be 9 miles with a stop every 1.5 miles.
The silver bridge to get back across the river
The return is longer as it has at least 30+ switchbacks in the last 3 miles of the trail and is just grueling!
12:00 Noon
We see a warning at 2 PM around Tonto East
We walked together as a group for the first 3 miles. We were climbing steadily but slowly. The altitude gain was gradual. Then we split up 4 and 5 and went through the next mile and a half. Once we reached this Indian garden or Havasupai garden (which is a cross point for two trails), three of us decided to move forward as we were already losing steam.
that is a little too late...
3:00 PM
We had hot chai and Parle G biscuits and started walking the last 4.5 miles. It was a steep climb and after the first mile it was already sapping.
The stops have a restroom and we can refill water bottles.
4:00 PM
Was taking it literally one step at a time. My legs were burning by then. There was no option but to keep going. The three of us tried to encourage each other with jokes every now and then.
4:30 PM
The towel came out to keep wiping rain from face.
5:00 PM in bad rain with a Poncho
When there was two miles left, it started drizzling. By then we had climbed up a good deal. We had come up 3500 feet and had 1500 more to go. Then drizzle became rain. The towel around my shoulders had to come off and replaced with a poncho. Was drenched inspite of the poncho. It was also getting colder as we were hiking up.
5:30 PM Made it back up! Changed clothes and got the jacket back up.. by then the rain had slowed to a drizzle
The idea of hiking up to end a trail is not that great. Usually we hike up mountains and come down to the parking lot. This was brutal to put it mildly.
When we made it back to the top, we were soaked and were not going to wait for the rest of the group. Glad we didn't. They were also hit by the rain and darkness and had to walk with headlamps and ponchos and made it an hour after we did. A 20 minute delay at Indian garden made them an hour late because of the unpredictable weather! We took the cab service and made it back to our rooms a little after 6 PM. Took us a good 30 minutes to sort things out and after a hot shower and some chai, we realized that we had actually made it!
The legs were shaking and sitting down or standing up was a slow process. I had already taken a couple of Ibuprofens every 3 hours all day thanks to my laces jumping the notches in my hiking shoe and hurting my ankle earlier in the day. That still didn't help at the end of the day.
Once all of us were ready we spent some time at the canteen at the Yavapai lodge. Then it was time to call it a night.
The next morning we were going to start at 8 AM from the lodge and celebrate!
That and the return back to Phoenix in the next post...
My wife, by default can convince me that everything she asks me to do, is going to be good for me.. and fun!
Usually she is right. It just takes me some time after I have done what she has asked me to do.. to realize that it was good and fun.
This weekend has witnessed yet another such event.
We hiked Rose Peak on what was supposed to be a cold cloudy Saturday. We usually hear horror stories from people who have tried this hike. Exhaustion, dehydration, injuries, folks being air lifted by helicoper etc. etc.
It is a very difficult hike with lots of ups and downs and paths where the trail has been cut through by running water (easy to twist ankle or fall) and 90% of it is open with no trees or cover. Doing this in summer would be really tough. That was one reason for jumping at the chance. There are the cows in the early part of the trail. The land has been leased for grazing. Invariably you have to hike around the cows, especially if there is a bull on the path. We encountered two and walked around.
We have been postponing this hike for some time now, trying to wait for right conditions. Our friends wanted to do this hike with us and the weather report suggested a near perfect day for this hike, and before we knew it, there we were packing the hiking backpacks.
When we parked our cars at the trailhead, it started drizzling. Showing me the weather forecast saying "see, there is no rain in the forecast", doesn't make it better when it is actually raining! The forecast was shown as proof that the rain at the start was some kind of anomaly. The rain gods however didn't seem to have gotten the memo from the Weather app folks.
Initially you walk along the creek. We did not see much water but what appeared to be ice or salt on the rocks in the middle of where the creek would be. Being curious, we went down to the middle of the dry creek to check it out. Turns out, this is wood debris that has been mushed to a pulp. This settles and wraps on the rocks like a mesh cloth. Guess this must be how the Egyptians discovered Papyrus!
The early part of this trail we have already been through.. on our way back from the Little Yosemite trail. We got to see the "W" tree again!
This should have been an under 8 hour hike by our usual standards.
Cloudy conditions are always good. We took 2 1/2 liters of water each and drank only a liter or liter and a half. Please note, there is no drinking water available on the trail anywhere!
However, we took 10 1/2 hours!
The big reason was that it was raining for a good hour on our way up. I was wearing cotton track pants (most synthetics give me allergic reaction) and the wet pants made it very difficult.
For the most part we walked the Ohlone Wilderness trail. We have passed by Hawk's nest on our previous way back on Little Yosemite but could not get a "bench photo" because an old couple were having their lunch on the bench. At least that is what I remember... this time we got the photo.
The 32 degrees inshirt from Costco may keep you warm, but is not waterproof either..
Then the rain stopped, but we walked up through the rain clouds and ended up above the clouds. As we walked through the clouds, the visibility was very poor, so we had to walk as a group so no one takes a wrong turn. During this time moisture kept condensing on our face and running into our clothes which was also an interesting challenge.
If you do this hike on a cloudy rainy day, wear all waterproof gear! We saw only two people on the 18+ mile trip. A guy who caught up with us 4 miles in and decided to turn back. He asked us "why would you want to go to the peak in this weather?".. we answered "so we can say we hiked it!'.. He shook his head in disbelief. When we reached the top, a girl ran in. She had come up in half the time and was planning to go down in half the time as well.
At the top, we not find the geological survey marker to take a picture. There was very poor visibility as well. We did sign the six peaks book to show date and time we made it. Had chai and packed sandwiches standing up (no place to even sit as everything was wet and slushy) and started the hike back. Hot chai never tasted so good ! My fingers were freezing and were numb when we got to the top!
It was going to be a race against time as sunset was 4:45 PM and we started at 2PM. Our original plan was to be make it back by 5 latest. However given the ups and downs, we found it difficult enough to come down. We were doing 25 minute miles for the first 5 instead of 15 minute miles like we expected.
One of our friends had just bought new shoes in REI to check them out for a later hike. Turns out the shoe was too loose as well as heel heavy, and it ended up being very painful. She had to use all her will power to walk the last 5 miles. My clothes were still wet. Guess cotton takes a long time to dry, if at all. To top things off, twisted my ankle trying to speed up. Fortunately San had two advil's in her backpack. Took that and kept walking. Trying to compensate for hurting ankle, my hamstrings and ITB pulled up. When 2/4 people in the group can walk only slowly, we knew it was going to be a difficult few hours.
We were treated to a glorious sunset, but didn't stop to take too many pictures. We were really scared of walking downhill in slippery conditions in the dark. Walked as fast as we could.
There was some light till 5:10. The last hour and 20 minutes we walked 3 miles in the dark, with a flashlight and the light in my headband. We managed to avoid stepping on all the lizards and salamanders, as well as frogs and bats on the floor! That also slowed us down.
Did take video clips almost every mile on the way up and down. Here is the compilation..
We were just glad this hike was behind us!
That said, I would like to do this hike again, on a not a partly couldy, cool non rainy day so we can get the views and walk faster. Now that we know the terrain and what it takes, we might do a better job!
For now, I am taking advil regularly and resting to get back to the normal routine.
Saturday, December 7, 2024 at 7:17PM ;)
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